Holiday Itinerary

Marrakech is a city like no other. A meeting place for the mountain Berbers and the desert people of the south for centuries, Morocco’s ‘Red City’ boasts a staggering array of spectacular architecture and wonderful facades, where trade and barter amongst the colourful souks still renders its ancient heart a glittering cacophony of noise and colour. Founded by the Almoravids, the city began life as a fortified ksour, before a comprehensive building programme under Ali Ben Youssef saw the city blossom into an imperial capital. It was during the 12th century that Marrakech enjoyed its golden age, when the Almohad dynasty took control and the city saw an influx of poets and scholars and its streets took on some of the grandeur that we see before us today. There are no planned activities for our first day, so you may like to take some time to enjoy something of the city before a tour briefing prior to dinner. Our hotel is located close to the old centre of the city, near the Djemmael- Fna, and the airport shuttle bus provides a regular service throughout the day from Menara Airport.

Leaving the main sites of Marrakech until our return, we head south-east this morning, winding our way up into the High Atlas mountains and over the Tizi n’ Tichka, the highest vehicular pass in Morocco and one often snow-covered during the winter months. The hills and deep gorges of the Atlas gradually give way to parched desert, sand and stone, as we drop down into the fertile landscapes of the Draa Valley. Following a road lined with palm groves, kasbahs and ksours (fortified villages) we then make our way to the village of Tamnougalt to explore what was once the capital of this remote desert region. Certainly one of the most impressive of the valley ksours, the village’s name translates as ‘meeting point’ and its history has been interwoven with the ruling caids of the Mezguita region for centuries. Even today it hosts an annual festival in October when all the surrounding villages gather for a celebration of the religious and cultural traditions of these hardy people. Turning south we then follow the course of the Draa River, driving through the everchanging scenery as we make our way towards the vast oasis of Zagora, referred to by many as The Gate of the Desert. Once a major outpost along the caravan routes, it is apparently 52 days by camel to Timbuktu, or so a nearby sign indicates! As for us, our day’s journey will cover nearly 400km and take us the better part of the day, but the scenic and cultural diversity will more than make up for the long drive.

An optional visit to the nearby hamlet of Amazrou affords an opportunity to visit the old Jewish Kasbah – the Kasbah des Juifs – and the surrounding palmery, one of the most fertile regions in the entire Draa Valley. Following the valley up towards the settlement of Tamegroute we next visit the famous 17th century zaouia, one of the most important in the Moroccan Sahara. This was once a centre of great learning and the base of the Naciri Brotherhood, who for centuries held sway over the tribes of the Draa Valley. The holy leaders of Tamegroute were traditionally (up until quite recent times) the arbitrators of desert disputes, settling differences amongst the residents of the surrounding kours and the traders that passed through these lands on the great camel caravans that journeyed through Zagora. From here we then continue on to the small hamlet of Tinfou, lying at the outer fringes of a line of undulating sand dunes that provide a taste of the immense grandeur of the Saharan Desert that lies beyond. An afternoon’s camel safari offer a chance to explore something of the desert landscape in the time honoured manner of the Tuareg nomads and there should be time to watch the sunset over the desert dunes. From here we return back to Zagora for our second night.

This morning we re-trace our steps to Agdz before heading acorss the Tamsift valley towards the small oasis settlement of Foum- Zquid. We then follow the course of a seasonal river through a wide valley that is dotted with oases and ksars. Passing through Tissint we continue to our night stop in the town of Tata, a desert oasis whose pink painted buildings provide a distinctly scenic backdrop to the colourful, sari-robed womenfolk of the settlement. The drive today takes us across the heart of the Sous region and the Anti-Atlas, the remote landscapes and stark contrasts more than making up for the long and at times bumpy journey.

The Anti-Atlas present us with some of the most spectacular scenery in Morocco, the towering majesty of the peaks offering a breathtaking juxtaposition to the lush fertile oases and the almost lunar quality of the landscape. Today we explore part of the Ameln Valley, a land of almonds and palm groves, high mountain scenery and the ancestral homeland of the Ameln, probably the most renowned of all the 6 tribes that occupy the Anti-Atlas, whose fierce loyalty and financial acumen is revered throughout the region. Our scenic drive west takes us to the town of Tafraoute, the spiritual heart of the Ameln, situated deep in the Anti-Atlas and surrounded by towering rock formations. Set before the imposing ridge of pinkish-brown quartzite known as Jebel Lekst (2359m), the ‘amethyst mountain’, the town lies amidst a landscape of surreal rock formations that have been carved and sculpted by natural erosion over millions of years, the play of light and shadow causing them to shimmer in the desert heat. After a short visit to the Painted Rocks we continue towards our final destination for the day, following a switchback track to the Berber village of Tagoudiche, located high up on the slopes of Jebel Lekst (alternatively you could walk up to the village from neighbouring Tamaloukt). Making use of our sleeping bags we will then spend the next two nights sleeping dorm-style in the village’s community house. The house has two large rooms for us to stay in, so you must be prepared for primitive conditions with limited washing facilities. Food will be purchased and prepared by your tour leader, but assisting with washing up is always welcome!

Amid the silence of the mountain valleys the hardy Berbers cultivate fields of barley, wheat, olives, figs, beans, peas and almond groves; their tiny villages a mass of painted flat roofed, stone and mud-cement houses. Tradition is strong amongst these people and social organisation remains uncompromisingly tribal. The exact origin of the Berbers is something of a mystery, but it is known that they were converted to Islam in the 8th century, retaining much of their traditional ways and adopting Arabic as their 2nd language. Driven out from the fertile lowlands, they were forced into the mountains and the desert, where they quickly adapted to the new environments in which they found themselves. Berber lifestyles have changed dramatically over the intervening centuries – the desert tribes evolving a nomadic way of life, whilst their mountain cousins have learnt to become adept farmers, eking out an existence amongst the sparse soils of the higher slopes. One thing they do still share though is a common language and culture, much of which can still be observed today amongst the daily lives of the villagers of Tagoudiche. The charm of the village is in the stillness of its quiet isolation and a free day today affords the chance to witness this at first hand, mixing with the locals and enjoying some unique interaction. Ruled by a strict social code most of these people are farmers or herdsmen and you could choose to spend today soaking up the atmosphere of village life, making the most of what is a rare opportunity to discover something of a largely forgotten culture. For those looking for more active options, you might like to partake in some walking around the area, with easy and moderate hikes available. Alternatively you could join an optional ascent, led by a local mountain guide, to the summit of Jebel Lekst (2359m), a strenuous 8-hour return journey that ascends over 1200m into the surrounding peaks (weather permitting).

After an early breakfast, we depart from Tagoudiche and we head down through the Anti-Atlas Mountains to the plains and onwards towards the Atlantic Coast (for those that wish it may be possible to walk down to Tamaloukt and meet the vehicles there). En route we will pass through several impressive fortified Kasbah villages and some of the most impressive scenery of our journey, as we make our way first towards the coastal city of Agadir, before reaching our final destination of the day, the resort town of Essaouria. A mecca for water sports enthusiasts, Essaouira is situated within the confines of15th century Portuguese fortifications, where whitewashed houses and traditional fishing boats present a perfect backdrop for our stay. The town has a rich and somewhat colourful history and its importance as a trading port during the 18th and 19th centuries saw it prosper, attracting British, French, Arab and Jewish merchants and sailors to its shores, influences still reflected in the architecture and layout of the town. An interesting, and it has to be said, wholly suspect legend claims the town’s patron saint to be a Scotsman by the name of McDougal, who was believed to have been washed up onto these shores after a storm in the 14th century. Another interesting footnote is that much of Orson Welles’s version of Othello was filmed here, its ramparts and coastline providing a rich and original setting for Shakespeare’s Moorish tragedy. On arrival, early this afternoon, the day has been left free for you to enjoy this lovely spot at your own leisure and we suggest a stroll around the old town or along the fine sandy beach from the harbour. Not to be missed is a visit to the Medina, whose narrow and highly decorated arched entrance hides a wealth locally made rustic leather belts, gleaming gold and silver jewellery and wooden boxes exquisitely inlaid with mother of pearl.